Hiking in Yakushima part II

Deutsche Version:

Wie es nun kam, bin ich in Kirishima angekommen, wobei ich hier absolut keinen Durchblick habe^^! Aber dazu mehr in dem dazugehörigen Beitrag, der dann abschließend kommen soll. Heute bin ich noch für eine Nacht in einem YHA Hostel am berühmten Kirishima Jinguu Tempel. Warum er berühmt ist, werdet ihr auch zu gegebener Zeit erfahren ;). Ab morgen werde ich dann campen gehen, für gute 3 Tage und am 25. einen jungen Deutschen treffen, den ich im Pirateboard kennengelernt habe ein Forum in dem ich seit 5 Jahren aktiv bin und hauptsächlich den Schwerpunkt One Piece/Manga, Anime im allgemeinen setzt. Bin gespannt wie es wird =).

English Version:

Part II – The ascending of Mt. Miyanoura (1.936 m)

Regarding the cramps that I got at the end of day I, I decided to rest for the second day in the Hut, and stretch my limbs to prepare for the next one. The night was really good, until it suddenly ended. My sleeping neighbour told me in advance the night before, that he will be out early, though I didn’t think much of this comment. But as the time came, he seriously woke up around 4:30 am (!) and packed his Backpack for a bloody hour, and it contained heaps of plastic bags! But the worst was already around the corner. Suddenly, everyone else in the Hut began to do the fucking same! It was really nervewracking, and while they even started talking and preparing breakfast, I couldn’t sleep at al, untill everyone was out of the goddamn Hut at around 6 am…
Japanese people are friendly as hell, but when it comes down to consideration for others in a shared accomodation, they’re absolutely ruthless! An horrible experience, the first (but surely not the last) of it’s kind^^. I spend the day with catching some sleep, writing my Diary, watching some Anime, and plan the next days, as well as eating my share from the day before too. Not much happend.

With the next day (I think I don’t have to mention that I had another horrible night), I was the last one leaving the Hut at 8:30 am, quite late, but therefore good weather, as far as I could see. Well, I was walking in clouds for the whole day, but at least no rain =).
Almost no one around on the track, which made it a much more enjoyable walk and I was able to get some rest at some locations and just be happy as I was completely there in spirit and body, and didn’t feel like I don’t belong on the track. It was such a breathtaking feeling, like endless happiness, which struck my whole being during the walk. I knew at that time, and felt it distinctly, that not the Hut at the end of the day was my aim, but truthfully the way to reach it. It was the first time I really felt like this and was overwhelmed by the everchanging landscapes, thanks to the passing clouds and the sun which occasionally shone through a gap in them! At this point, even though I experienced some hardships, the trip already paid off double. I think I was never in such peace with myself than I was there.

As I went on, the artifical stairs became less and made way for more natural steps, meaning rocks, sometimes even big rocks, which were not as easy to ascend (later on descend) as one might think. Some parts even led up on a steep and smooth rock surface, on which a thick rope was tide to and one had to rockclimb with more than 20 kg’s on the back. Fortunately just for a couple of meters.
With the beginning of the subalpine terrain the massive, and old trees became less and rhododendren and all mountain hills covering bamboogras became the dominant vegetation around. A good hiding spot for Yaku-Deer, wich are to be seen almost everywhere up there, and not as shy as the ones in the forest. One of them ate the bamboogras just half a meter apart from the trail, where at that moment, a small group of hikers went through. The deer noticed them of course but didn’t run away but continued eating as if nothing happened. Great pictures followed up^^. All the photographs for this part can be seen in here.

As I reached the top of Mt. Miyanoura, which was quite hard for me, but at least I didn’t experience cramps again, so the break was worth it, I felt a deep satisfaction with myself. A longer rest was overdue, because from there on, the only way was downhill until I would reach the Yodogawa Hut, the place where I would rest for the night.
Now, downhill hiking might seem to be easier than uphill, but the contarary is the truth. While uphill is hard for the upper body, downhill pays a hardtime on ones legs, especially with a heavy backpack as mine and considereing the trail, with a lot of big rocks and hard terrain, it was no easy task. But everything went well, and I made my way down in One Piece, with occasional rest at beautiful places to enjoy the way down to the Hut. There is not much to tell about this bit, but that I met a japanese guy (Tatsuya) from Nagano, at Hananoegou the central point in which all the tracks south of Miyanoura join together, and the last step before I should reach the Hut. We came to talk and he would accompany me to Yodogawa for the next, roughly, 70 minutes. The last bit of the track was really easy walking. Well maintained track, compared to the previous one, and not as narrow too. So we made progress quite fast. The last 500 meter however, became again, a bit tricky to walk. Steep and narrow, a lot of roots and rocks would summarize it the best way. But finally, after ending this obstacle we reached the Hut which is located directly at the beautiful Yodogawa River! We met another jap. Guy in the Hut, who told me the weatherforecast for the next day. Hevay rain and strong winds are to be expected, which would leave me another day in the Hut. A wise decision made by myself, for the last track, down to Onoaida in the south of the Island, is considered really hard, everyone adviced me to not take this route, it is really just for highly experienced hikers. Nevertheless did I want to give it a try, but because it goes downhill on the south facing side of the Island, it would have been unwise taking the route while it rains like hell. The day after would be more promising he told me. Hence I decided to stay another night i still had enough supplies, but only for this one night. If the weather wouldn’t change to the better afterwards I would have been forced to leave. Either taking the 5.000 Yen Shuttle Bus to Anbo in the east of the Island (which I wanted to avoid), or walk all the way down to Onoaid. After this little chat, Tatsuya went on to catch the Bus, leaving the old man, a canadian woman and myself back in the Hut. Nice to be in a small group for once.
Because I was sweating for two days and probably stinking too, I decided to get down to the river and have a proper rinse^^. It was cold but perfectly for my aching legs and refreshing for my soul. After that I neeeded to eat something, for there was a huge hole in my stomach that needed to be filled up! I had a talk with the old man and enjoyed the setting sun. All in all a perfect day, with a perfect outcome!


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